Every third digital camera user drops his device, and 30% of these people drop their cameras in the water. Dropping your device in the water has more chances to damage camera than falling on the ground or asphalt. But even if you dropped your camera in the water you would still have chance to save it.

First, drowning camera needs to be put out from the water and then you need to take out the battery and the memory card. Then it is necessary to shake out the water left inside. Moreover if you put the device from the sea (you’re lucky to have been on the shore this year) you’d need to wash it with fresh water (at least you find less salt there). If you can find spirit or distilled water, which are hard to find during vacation on the shore, use it. If you think that it leaves tracks on the matrix of the camera, it won’t get any worse.

When you have shaken out the water wipe photo camera optics, then clean it as usual. Put the device in water absorbency material. Now you need to wait until the inside part of the device dries up. After 8 hours you can try using it or prepare the money for service. Anyway the camera needs to be tested on the mud and track presence.

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Various dreams come to us: individual and global, close and far… They exist inside and outside of each of us, in real and potential things. Intruding in dream dimension we can expect anything.

You just have to think about the word “dream” and a myriad of meanings and associations take off like butterflies on a warm spring day. The use of this meaning by Alnis Stakle highlight ironical platform of his creativity. His art is not a dream, but it is the dimension of dreaming. At least one can classify his pictures this way.

Stakle sees his surroundings, just kike his personality, as some kind of a receptacle, a room for a dream. An object of photography can be chosen unexpected: far blue sky, a still life of his breakfast, ironing boards, self-portrait… We feel the nearness of the photographer watching his pictures.

Talking about his work, Stakle admits that he usually doesn’t choose a subject, but a subject chooses him. And so tangible objects and landscapes appear on a photograph, we as well as the author were put in under circumstances; these stories or subjects are only an agenda for further view.

Stakle gives us something you can call “physical encyclopedia”, catalogue of his own physical existence. He builds photo-library, using its’ index one can easily be guided by. The photograph successively fixes the elements, things, places and moments, inclined to go out their own frames. The picture, where a pile of photographs, moment shots, negatives is depicted, adds to piety which author feels for his profession but at the same time these are the pictures, he creates, collects, edits, developing new topic.

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Things you need to do good height frames.

Aircraft. If you’re keen on aircraft modeling you can place your camera on the plane, otherwise don’t even think about it. This solution is rather expensive, the cheaper one is to construct a kite. But weight of the camera should be taken into consideration.

Camera. There are several requirements to a photo camera: it is desirable that it is not heavy (although you can use heavy and well-protected cameras like Olympus m 770 SW), capable to take pictures in appointed intervals in fully automatic mode (for example, one shot every 20-30 seconds) – such models are really rare (for example, Nikon Coolpix S1, S2, S6, 3700, Pentax Optio S6, Canon PowerShot Digital IXUS 850 IS, S60, S70, Kodak P850, Olympus SP-510 UZ, SP-500 UZ, SP-310, SP-350, Konica Minolta DiMAGE Z2), you should choose the very camera you won’t grudge loosing, plus image optical stabilization function is desirable as both camera and plane/kite will vibrate.

Protection. Before you place your camera on a kite, think about heavy blow protection: pack the body and the camera in part with foam plastic. You can also think of moistureproof camera protection in case a kite falls down in water.

Flying practice. First you have to figure out how to control a kite in general. First do it without “cargo”, then with “cargo”, corresponding to camera weight (place “cargo” in the very place you are going to place your camera). When you get it and fly your kite without falling and hanging in the trees you can start flying with a camera.

Settings. Camera should be adjusted to persistent survey mode. Interval has to be about 10-30 seconds, which are enough for memory card saving and for your pictures differ. Zoom should be set in wide-angle position to see more.

Location bracketry. You can fasten a camera with sticky tape. The most important thing to remember is that your camera mustn’t be torn away or blown. By the way you don’t have to place your camera on a kite, you can do it on fishing line/rope holding a kite – the risk of breaking camera decreases.

Flight. Remember that you’ll need help – fly a kite with your friends, kids, spy-colleagues. Say goodbye to your camera beforehand, this is how you’ll go through sorrow of your camera loss in case a kite falls down in the river or is blown by a stone.

Safety precautions. Do not fly a kite with a camera during rain, storm, near power transmission lines or secret government objects and airports, don’t do it alone; be venturesome but don’t loose your head.
And Happy Landing!

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